The number stamped inside a ring tells you how much of it is gold. Karat counts gold in twenty-fourths: 24 parts in 24 is pure gold, 18 parts in 24 is 18K, and so on down. The rest of the metal is an alloy, usually silver, copper, zinc or palladium, chosen to set the colour and to make the gold hard enough to hold a stone.
Every karat, side by side
- 24K
- 99.9 percent gold. Pure gold. Deep yellow and soft enough to bend by hand, so rarely set with stones.
- 22K
- 91.7 percent gold. Rich yellow, still soft. Traditional for bridal gold in South Asia and the Gulf.
- 21K
- 87.5 percent gold. Common across the Middle East. Warm colour, softer than 18K.
- 20K
- 83.3 percent gold. Less common. Sits between 18K and 22K in colour and hardness.
- 19K
- 79.2 percent gold. Traditional in Portugal. Richer than 18K, a little softer.
- 18K
- 75.0 percent gold. The fine jewellery standard in much of Europe. Rich colour, hard enough to hold stones well.
- 14K
- 58.3 percent gold. The North American standard for engagement rings. A balance of colour and strength.
- 10K
- 41.7 percent gold. Harder than 14K and lower in cost, with a paler yellow. Wears well every day.
- 9K
- 37.5 percent gold. The lowest common karat. Hard, pale, and the least gold by weight.
Lower karat is not lower quality
A lower karat has less gold in it, which makes it cost less, and more alloy, which makes it harder. That is why 14K and 10K are the usual choice for a ring worn every day, and why 24K is almost never used for one. What you give up is colour: the less gold, the paler the yellow and the cooler the rose. White gold is bright white at every karat because it is usually plated with rhodium, which is renewed every few years.
Why 9K and 10K are back
Gold costs far more than it did a few years ago, and gold jewellery is priced by the weight of pure gold it contains. A 10K ring carries about 41.7 percent gold against 58.5 percent in 14K, so the same design costs noticeably less, while looking very close at arm's length. It is also harder, which suits rings and chains worn every day. For most of our pieces we show the 10K or 9K price beside the 14K and 18K ones, so you can see the difference rather than guess at it.
Gold or platinum
Platinum jewellery is usually 95 percent platinum. It is heavier than gold, naturally white so it never needs replating, and very dense, so a claw holding a stone wears slowly. It does not lose metal as it wears; it moves, which leaves a soft matte finish that can be polished back. It costs more to make into a ring because it is harder to work. Gold is lighter, comes in yellow, white and rose, and is easier to resize.
Our catalogue pieces come in 10K or 9K, 14K and 18K gold. Settings in the ring builder are offered in platinum as well.
DAGARIAS
A fine diamond jewellery house
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